DGM- Fabric Quality (Knit)

Context:

To lead and manage fabric technology and technical development activities for knit garments, ensuring that fabrics meet required quality, performance, construction, appearance, dimensional stability, color, hand feel, and buyer specifications from development through bulk production.

The position will work closely with Merchandising, Product Development, Knitting, Dyeing, Finishing, Quality, Garments Production, Washing, and Buying/Technical teams to ensure right-first-time fabric development and minimize technical and quality-related risks.

Job Responsibilities:

• Lead development of knit fabrics according to buyer specifications, tech packs and product requirements.

• Analyze fabric construction, GSM, composition, stitch length, loop length, gauge and other technical parameters.

• Develop and approve suitable fabric structures for different product categories.

• Recommend appropriate yarn, knitting structure, dyeing process and finishing route.

• Evaluate new fibers, yarns, blends and fabric technologies.

• Ensure fabric development is commercially viable without compromising required quality.

• Establish technical specifications for different fabric qualities.

• Prepare and maintain fabric technical data sheets/specifications.

• Define acceptable ranges for:

  • GSM

  • Width

  • Shrinkage

  • Spirality

  • Skewness

  • Pilling

  • Bursting strength

  • Tensile strength

  • Colorfastness

  • Dimensional stability

  • Appearance

  • Hand feel

• Ensure compliance with buyer and international standards.

• Work closely with knitting teams to optimize machine settings and fabric construction.

• Troubleshoot technical problems such as:

  • Barre

  • Spirality

  • Uneven GSM

  • Needle lines

  • Drop stitches

  • Holes

  • Lycra problems

  • Uneven loop length

  • Width variation

• Recommend suitable machines, gauges and knitting parameters.

• Monitor fabric performance from knitting through finishing.

• Work with dyeing and finishing teams to achieve required shade, GSM, width and hand feel.

• Identify root causes of fabric defects arising during dyeing and finishing.

• Optimize finishing parameters to control shrinkage, spirality and dimensional stability.

• Develop finishing recipes/processes for specific fabric requirements.

• Support troubleshooting of shade, hand-feel and appearance issues.

• Establish preventive controls to reduce fabric-related quality problems.

• Review fabric inspection reports and analyze recurring defects.

• Conduct technical analysis of rejected/failed fabrics.

• Lead root-cause analysis and corrective/preventive action (CAPA).

• Monitor fabric performance during garment production and after washing.

• Ensure consistency between approved sample and bulk production.

• Coordinate fabric testing according to buyer requirements and applicable standards.

• Review laboratory test reports and identify potential risks before bulk production.

• Ensure testing of:

  • Colorfastness

  • Shrinkage

  • Spirality

  • Pilling

  • Rubbing

  • Washing

  • Perspiration

  • Light

  • Bursting/tensile strength

  • Dimensional stability

• Work with accredited external laboratories where required.

• Ensure proper calibration and maintenance of testing equipment.

• Interpret buyer technical manuals, fabric specifications and performance requirements.

• Participate in technical meetings with buyers and buying houses.

• Handle technical queries related to fabric construction and performance.

• Provide technical solutions for buyer comments and fabric approval issues.

• Ensure all fabric developments comply with buyer-approved standards.

• Review fabric requirements before bulk production.

• Approve fabric construction and technical parameters before bulk knitting.

• Conduct pre-production technical reviews.

• Monitor first bulk lots against approved standards.

• Ensure bulk fabric consistency with development/approval samples.

• Provide technical clearance for bulk production where applicable.

• Work with Merchandising and Production teams to optimize fabric cost.

• Identify opportunities for:

  • Yarn optimization

  • GSM optimization

  • Machine utilization

  • Process optimization

  • Finishing optimization

  • Reduced wastage

• Evaluate alternative fabric constructions without affecting buyer requirements.

• Lead investigation of major fabric-related issues, including:

• Fabric holes

• Barre

• Shade variation

• GSM variation

• Width variation

• Excessive shrinkage

• Spirality

• Pilling

• Uneven dyeing

• Hand-feel variation

• Lycra growth/recovery issues

• Fabric contamination

• Finishing defects

• Garment appearance problems